UU-Life A trip to Egupt

Contents
1.	Introduction	11.	Temple of Horus
2.	History of Egypt	12.	Kom Ombo Temple
3.	Arrival in Luxor	13.	Temple of Isis
4.	Luxor Temple	14.	The Unfinished Obelisk
5.	Belly Dance Show	15.	Aswan High Dam
6.	Valley of the Kings	16.	Abu Simbel Temple
7.	Hatshepsut's Mortuary Temple	17.	The Pyramids of Giza
8.	The Tomb of Nefertari	18.	The Sphinx
9.	Karnak Temple	19.	The Egyptian Museum
10.	Esna Water Gate	20.	Afterword

1. Introduction

As I had no confidence in safely traveling alone to Egypt, so I joined a tour with Club Tourism for safety. I flew for 13.5 hours from Narita Airport to Istanbul on a Turkish Airlines flight (TK51). Looking at the flight map, I observed that we flew straight west from above Beijing, but there was a subtle zigzag as we crossed over China. Perhaps there is a military base on the ground, or due to the war in Ukraine, we couldn't fly over Russia; it might be one of those reasons.

From Istanbul, I was set to fly to Cairo (TK692), but I had a surprising 7-hour layover. It was quite inefficient... Given the circumstances, I spent nearly 5 hours sleeping comfortably in a reclining seat in the lounge. By the way, I had already occupied three seats on the plane on the way here to sleep, so I was lucky to have plenty of sleep and no back pain.

Incidentally, I heard that a direct flight from Narita to Cairo (EgyptAir) commenced on September 28, after my travels. The first flight reportedly had all 300 seats fully booked.

I finally arrived at my hotel in Cairo close to dawn, took a break at the hotel, and after breakfast, headed to Luxor via a domestic flight.

2. History of Egypt

Egypt is a slender country stretching 1024 kilometers in length, with the Nile River basin generally consisting of areas at sea level.

Regarding the history of ancient Egypt, I decided to consult the trendy ChatGPT, and here is what I discovered. I've combined answers from various angles based on my questions.

(1) Unification of Upper and Lower Egypt

Around 3100 BC, approximately 5100 years ago, Upper Egypt (the southern part) and Lower Egypt (the northern part), which had previously been separate, were unified, marking the beginning of ancient Egyptian civilization.

The unifier of both Egypts is considered to be Narmer (also known as Menes), Egypt fs first pharaoh. He wore the "double crown," a combination of the crowns of Upper and Lower Egypt, symbolizing unity. This event laid the foundation for the establishment and advancement of ancient Egyptian civilization and is considered the beginning of Egypt's history.

Egypt is situated in the fertile Nile River basin, which was the center of life. Annual floods provided rich soil that supported agriculture in ancient times.

The ancient Egyptians used a script known as hieroglyphs. It is a well-known fact that Jean-Francois Champollion, a French scholar, deciphered this script in the early 19th century using the Rosetta Stone.

Ancient Egyptians believed in polytheism and worshiped numerous gods, including Ra, Isis, Osiris, and Horus.

Pharaohs were venerated even after death, and their souls were believed to enjoy eternal life in the afterlife. Therefore, pyramids housed not only sarcophagi but also treasures and food.

Ancient Egypt made many significant contributions to art, architecture, religion, and science. Its influence spread worldwide, and even today, its legacy remains extraordinary.

(2) The Old Kingdom (c. 2686-2181 BC)

The Old Kingdom, positioned in the early history of Egypt, is known as the era when the famous pyramids were constructed. It encompassed the 3rd through the 6th Dynasties.

The pyramids of Giza (of Pharaohs Khufu, Khafre, and Menkaure) were built during this period, which was also when the power of the Pharaohs was at its peak.

(3) The Middle Kingdom (c. 2040-1640 BC)

The Middle Kingdom followed the Old Kingdom and is characterized by stability and cultural development, including advancements in literature, poetry, and religion.

It includes the 11th Dynasty, which started from the Intef family, and the 12th Dynasty, unified under the Memphite family of Thebes.

(4) The New Kingdom (c. 1550-1070 BC)

The New Kingdom marks the most prosperous period in Egyptian history, during which many renowned Pharaohs emerged. Their reigns coincided with Egypt's peak influence.

  - Amenhotep IV (also known as Akhenaten) promoted the worship of the sun god Aten, leading to the period known as the Amarna Age.
  - During the reign of King Tutankhamun (Tutankhamen), the Amarna religion came to an end, and traditional beliefs were revived.
  - The reign of Ramses II included the expansion of the Karnak Temple and the construction of the Abu Simbel Temple, culminating in a peace treaty after the Battle of Kadesh against the Hittites.

(5) The Greco-Roman Period (332 BC-7th century AD)

Beginning with Alexander the Great's conquest of Egypt in 332 BC, Egypt came under the rule of the Ptolemaic dynasty following his death. This era lasted from the 4th century BC to the 1st century BC, and their most significant achievement was the establishment of the new city of Alexandria, which became an important cultural center of the ancient world.

The last Pharaoh of the Ptolemaic dynasty was Cleopatra VII, a famous female Pharaoh. She had relations with Roman generals Julius Caesar and later Mark Antony, thus holding a political key to the relationship between Rome and Egypt.

However, Antony, along with Cleopatra VII, was defeated by Octavian (later known as the first Roman Emperor Augustus), leading to Egypt coming under Roman control in 30 BC and the end of the Ptolemaic dynasty.

During the Greco-Roman period, traditional Egyptian gods merged with Greek and Roman deities, forming new religious beliefs while still maintaining some aspects of indigenous religion and mythology. This was a fascinating era characterized by the fusion of ancient Egyptian and classical Greek-Roman cultural influences.

(6) Islamization (7th Century Onward)

Islam was founded in the early 7th century on the Arabian Peninsula. Efforts to propagate Islam also took place in Egypt.

In 642 AD, Egypt was conquered by Caliph Umar ibn al-Khattab, marking its incorporation into the Islamic world.

Following this, Arabic and Islam spread throughout Egypt, causing many Egyptians to convert to the faith. The introduction of Islamic culture and laws, along with the spread of the Arabic language, strongly influenced Egyptian culture and society.

While Baghdad was the center of the Islamic world, Egypt came under the rule of the Abbasid dynasty. During this time, Egypt flourished as a center of knowledge and culture, becoming one of the significant cities alongside Baghdad.

My recent visit to Egypt revealed that the sites I explored were rich not only in pharaonic heritage but also in Greco-Roman legacies (specifically from the Ptolemaic period).

3. Arrival in Luxor

I took a domestic flight (Air Cairo 60) from Cairo to Luxor. I was quite taken aback by having to undergo security checks three times at Cairo Airport. This was at Terminal 1, while I heard Terminal 2 has two checks. I'm not sure why that is. Do they think extremists will head toward Terminal 1, like those who caused the Luxor incident in 1997.

By the way, Luxor refers to Thebes, which served as the capital from the Middle Kingdom to the New Kingdom of ancient Egypt.

In Luxor, I boarded the Nile River cruise ship "Alhambra" and checked in. The cruise ship has four stories, and there's a pool on the rooftop. I noticed guests from Europe wearing swimsuits that remind one of Japan's Jomon Venus, as they swam and lounged comfortably on benches, causing a bit of a distraction for me.

While on the cruise, I had the opportunity to hear from the grandson (Mr. Noubi) of the discoverer of Tutankhamun's tomb. He is a member of the influential Abd el-Rasul family from the west bank of the Nile. The guest was not particularly eloquent but showed us pictures of the discovery and his family using a USB memory stick.

The tomb of Tutankhamun was uncovered by American archaeologist Howard Carter, who began excavations in the Valley of the Kings in 1917 and discovered the tomb's entrance in 1922. The catalyst for this discovery was his grandfather, Hussein.

His grandfather was the site supervisor. During a challenging excavation, he attempted to give water to the workers by loading a donkey with a water jug to fetch water from the Nile. Upon returning, the donkey stumbled, and the jug broke. Consequently, the water seeped into the soil, revealing a cavity, which led him to call Dr. Carter, resulting in the eventual discovery.

One-third of the world fs heritage sites are located in Egypt, with one-third of that in Luxor. Incidentally, "Luxor" means the plural of "palace" in Arabic.

4. Luxor Temple

Luxor Temple, located in Thebes (modern-day Luxor) and serving as the capital during the Middle to New Kingdoms of ancient Egypt, is situated right in the heart of the city and enters from the side of its busiest market. My visit was at night, and it was pleasantly cool compared to the daytime heat. The illumination added depth to the scenery, making it fantastic.

I was overwhelmed by the tall obelisks, numerous columns, and statues of kings looking down over me. Hieroglyphs were inscribed on both the bases and the obelisks. It truly gave me the sense of "Ah, I fve come to Egypt."

Additionally, I was unaware that there was a procession of sphinxes along the pathway, resembling the rows of lanterns seen at Japanese shrines. This was also a breathtaking sight.

5. Belly Dance Show

Belly dancing, to put it bluntly, featured a prominently plump belly dancer as the star of the evening. The dancer performed while also inviting a suitable female audience member to join in for a duet.

Among the audience participants, there were some skilled dancers; one of them revealed that she had been practicing hula dance for many years. It became evident that the key differences in dancing styles were that both Japanese dance and hula use the knees, whereas belly dance emphasizes the hips.

Next, a man wearing colorful circular fabric stepped out and began to twirl around. While we would likely collapse after a few minutes of dancing, he appeared completely unfazed. It was truly impressive.

In neighboring Turkey, there exists a branch of Islamic mysticism known as Sufism. This practice seeks a closer connection to God and focuses on personal spiritual growth and religious experience, often characterized by whirling. Though perhaps not directly related, it reminded me of that.

6. Valley of the Kings

(1) Visiting Three Tombs

We set out for a tour of the Valley of the Kings early in the morning at 5:45 AM, departing from the cruise ship. As the ship was scheduled to depart at 2 PM, we needed to return by then. The early morning light meant fewer tourists, and with clouds overhead casting shadows, the experience was quite pleasant. The temperature likely didn ft exceed 30 degrees Celsius.

The layout of the Valley of the Kings resembles a valley within sandstone mountains, and the visitor center featured models of both the surface and subterranean layouts. A total of 62 tombs have been discovered in the Valley of the Kings. To maintain their preservation, only a few tombs are opened to the public at a time. On this visit, we were fortunate to see the tomb of Ramses IV (KV 2), that of his son Merneptah (KV 8), and, most importantly, Tutankhamun's tomb (KV 62).

As a side note, the purpose of a tomb is to serve as a place for preserving the deceased's mummified body, so they may be reborn.

According to our guide Amro, the ancient Egyptians believed that the sun setting each day and rising again represented the sun's death and rebirth. Similarly, they viewed the Nile fs annual flooding and subsequent return to its normal flow as a cycle of resurrection. Consequently, they believed that even after death, the soul would return and revive.

To prepare for this resurrection, they created mummies in the same form the individuals had in life. While the exact process of mummification isn ft fully understood, it is believed that it involved drying the body with salt and sunlight, followed by coating it in tar and wax.

(2) Tomb of Ramses IV

Our guide Amro explained the drawings and hieroglyphs within the tomb.

"This is a confession of the deceased listing the things they did not do or should have done in life.

  - Here is the image of a sky god depicting a woman in a bridging position
  - the sky goddess Nut
  - the sky god consumes the sun and emerges again by night.

This scene represents the deceased "A soul descending from the sky, hindered by a snake; if the soul triumphs, it continues to descend, only to be obstructed by another snake."

His explanation was quite thorough.

(3) Tomb of Tutankhamun

The last tomb discovered in the New Kingdom was that of Tutankhamun, which was uncovered in 1922 by American archaeologist Howard Carter.

Tutankhamun fs tomb was the 62nd tomb discovered among the royal tombs. He ascended to the throne at the age of eight and died at eighteen, so preparations for his pyramid were still in the early stages. Consequently, it is believed that he exchanged his prepared tomb with that of an already completed priest. While the priest was buried in what was intended for Tutankhamun, that tomb was later looted and left empty. Thus, the exchange proved fortuitous.

In fact, Tutankhamun's mummy was not in Cairo fs museum but situated near this burial chamber. However, the famous mask, as I will discuss later, was indeed housed in the Cairo museum.

(4) Tomb of Merneptah

Merneptah was the oldest son of Ramses II. His tomb features beautiful relief carvings.

It fs worth mentioning that whether a relief is sculpted in high or low relief depends on its intended location. Poor lighting at the time meant that they adopted methods that made the art appear more beautiful depending on where it was displayed.

As we exited and rode the bus for a while, we noticed multiple hot air balloons rising into the sky. This area is evidently famous for hot air ballooning. The sight of colorful balloons floating in the desert heat is indeed picturesque, but unfortunately, it was against the light.

7. Hatshepsut's Mortuary Temple

(1) Queen Hatshepsut

Queen Hatshepsut of the 18th Dynasty is famous as the first female pharaoh, but she has a unique background marked by her falling out with her successful successor, Thutmose III, which led to the destruction of all the structures she built.

Thutmose III was the eldest son of Thutmose II, but he was sent to Syria during his childhood. During his absence, Thutmose II passed away, and Hatshepsut, his wife, ascended as pharaoh, acting as regent for the underage Thutmose III. Since Hatshepsut did not engage in wars, peace prevailed during her reign. With the army otherwise occupied, they were employed in agriculture and development, significantly boosting the economy.

However, upon Thutmose III fs return from Syria, a struggle for the throne ensued, which he won. Consequently, Hatshepsut fs achievements were entirely denied, and everything she built was reportedly destroyed. Thutmose III constructed his temple adjacent to Hatshepsut's mortuary temple, but it was shattered when a rockslide occurred?a sort of divine retribution.

(2) Colossi of Memnon

Near Hatshepsut's mortuary temple stand the Colossi of Memnon, two enormous stone statues erected during the New Kingdom. Each statue stands 18 meters tall and represents the pharaoh Amenhotep III.

Interestingly, gMemnon h derives from the hero Memnon of Greek mythology, who appeared in the Trojan War.

8. The Tomb of Nefertari

In the Valley of the Queens lies the tomb of Nefertari (meaning gThe Most Beautiful One out of the Beautifuls h), which amazed me with its excellent preservation and stunning colors.

She was the most beloved wife of Ramses II, and the tomb was discovered in 1908. Initially submerged in seawater, the paintings became covered with salt. Fortunately, this inadvertently led to better preservation of the art and colors compared to ordinary tombs. Once the salt was removed and restoration was completed, extraordinarily beautiful reliefs and paintings were revealed.

Dating back 3,300 years, the colors and shapes are among the best preserved in the Valley of the Queens. After seeing this tomb, the others appeared relatively unimpressive.

I attempted to photograph the interior of Nefertari's tomb using a Sony 7, but either due to a settings error or perhaps because I rushed and didn ft take enough time, my images were completely blank. Reflecting later, I wondered if the high temperature had caused the camera to malfunctions. The issues occurred in the humid tomb and in direct sunlight, likely leading the camera to exceed 40 degrees Celsius. However, surprisingly, the backup photos taken with my iPhone turned out well, highlighting the remarkable advancements in modern smartphone technology.

After visiting Nefertari's tomb, we stopped by the Colossi of Memnon and then took a motorboat across the Nile to the opposite bank.

9. Karnak Temple

Karnak Temple, the central temple of Thebes (modern-day Luxor), was constructed over a period of 2,000 years, beginning 4,000 years ago. It is a massive temple that has been expanded and modified by numerous pharaohs as a testament to their faith in the god Amun.

Interestingly, the sphinxes lining the avenue here do not have normal heads; instead, they have the heads of rams. The sight of them lined up on both sides of the pathway is truly impressive.

Upon entering the vast courtyard, one can find flame trees and Nile acacias. However, it quickly opens up to the reddish-brown earth.

Since we were visiting Karnak Temple in the morning, with temperatures around 35 degrees, it felt manageable. However, by around 3 PM, it was expected to reach 41 degrees. The site is extraordinarily expansive, filled with structures built by successive pharaohs, with the older elements found deeper within. The heat was intense, and I witnessed several tourists fainting from heat exhaustion.

Despite the extreme heat, the temple complex was packed with tourists. There were conversations in German, Spanish, English, Chinese, Arabic, and Japanese, and the din was quite something to behold.

I was overwhelmed by the scale of the Hypostyle Hall, which features 134 towering columns. Nearby, there were people circling around a scarab (dung beetle statue), likely making some sort of wish.

I was overwhelmed by the scale of the Hypostyle Hall, which features 134 towering columns. Nearby, there were people circling around a scarab (dung beetle statue), likely making some sort of wish.

The interior walls and columns, although significantly faded now, were likely once vibrant in color, and remnants of that brightness remain. The pigments used were primarily from stones: light blue represented turquoise, dark blue was lapis lazuli, white was limestone, red came from iron rust, black was soot, and green came from malachite. Reliefs were deeply carved, filled with pigment, and ultimately treated with egg whites, particularly from large eggs like those of ostriches.

10. Esna Water Gate

The boat smoothly set out upstream. Given the early morning and the fatigue from walking under the blazing sun, I decided to take a nap around 3 PM. I fell asleep the moment I got into bed and didn ft wake until 6 PM. I heard raucous voices while I slept, but I was too drowsy to pay them any mind. When I finally glanced outside the window, I saw the boat smoothly navigating the Nile.

As I lay dozing in my room, I suddenly heard loud greetings of "Hello, hello, hello." I lacked the energy to get up and investigate, so I simply rested until the noise gradually faded. The next morning, I learned that it was a small boat of vendors trying to sell goods to the cruise passengers.

Dinner that evening was late, starting at 8 PM, and during the meal, our boat was scheduled to pass through the Esna Water Gate. As it happened, we crossed through the lock while we were eating, leading me to pause my meal midway to go see.

From the rooftop, I could see several boats lined up waiting to pass through the lock. As we were docked beside a boat on our left, it departed first, followed by our vessel. The lock accommodates two boats side by side and two end-to-end. A rowboat served as a pilot to guide us through, while crew members shouted commands to adjust our course. There was hardly a gap of a few dozen centimeters between our boat and the walls. It's remarkable that such large boats can fit into such a narrow space.

Finally entering the lock, we moved forward and came to a stop. As the boat at the rear entered, the lock began to close quietly, and the water level increased, lifting our boat. When the water level matched that of the upstream, the front gate opened, allowing us to proceed. It was a straightforward mechanism.

11. Temple of Horus

The Temple of Horus at Edfu, located on the west bank of the Nile, is a Greco-Roman ruin. Having been buried in the desert for many years, it is considered one of the best-preserved temples in Egypt.

Constructed between 237 BC and 57 BC, it began during the reign of Ptolemy III and was completed during the reign of Ptolemy XII. The temple is dedicated to the falcon-headed god Horus, who, along with Hathor (the goddess) from the nearby Temple at Dendara, is part of a divine marriage. Every year, Hathor travels south to visit Horus at Edfu, akin to the story of Orihime and Hikoboshi (the Weaver and the Cowherd). The sacred union of these two deities became the catalyst for large-scale festivals and pilgrimages across Egypt. At the innermost part of the temple lies the sacred boat, which was particularly revered during festivals.

According to our guide Amro, "Horus, the son of Osiris, was taught by his mother Isis from a young age. Your uncle Set is the enemy of your father. When he came of age, he battled Set and killed him. This story is depicted in the wall reliefs. In one scene, Set takes the form of a hippopotamus, which Horus spears and captures, tying it up to transport by boat for trial and execution. Interestingly, Osiris became the god of the underworld to ensure he would not be killed again."

Two sculptures of Horus are located at the entrance of the temple. Particularly on the left side, the preservation is excellent. Although it appears that the statue has two hats, they actually symbolize Upper and Lower Egypt." I had my picture taken in front of these statues, and it became one of my favorite photos of this trip.

12. Kom Ombo Temple

The Temple of Kom Ombo is a unique double temple built during the Ptolemaic period (332-30 BC). It is dedicated to two deities, Sobek and Haroeris (the Great Horus), which results in a symmetrical structure.

As we traveled upstream on the Nile River, we arrived at the temple's dock and found that the temple was just a few minutes' walk away.

We disembarked around 4 PM for our visit to Kom Ombo Temple, and the moment I stepped off the boat, I was hit by an intense wave of heat. I learned later that it was 42 degrees Celsius?an unprecedented heat that felt like being pricked all over my skin; exposing my bare skin was painful.

When I placed my towel over my nose and mouth, the discomfort dissipated. I realized that the all-black attire of Arab women, resembling a crow, might serve not only religious purposes but also be suitable for this kind of climate.

Our guide, Amro, read the hieroglyphs inscribed on the walls. Surprisingly, one of the phonetic characters read out "Cleopatra" As we progressed a bit further, he pointed at the paintings on the walls and explained, "Ancient Egypt had advanced medicine. Here you see a figure offering gifts to the person on the left, and the figure on the right is a physician. In the middle is the examination scene. The hieroglyph on the round chair to the physician's left indicates a prescribed remedy, instructing 'take it daily after meals.'"

At another wall painting, he indicated, "To determine the timing for sowing and harvesting, ancient Egypt developed its own calendar. They used a ten-day system, which is written out here."

His detailed explanations prompted me to ask, Amro, you are not just a guide, but an expert on ancient Egypt, right? He responded, "I studied for two years and hold a diploma in ancient Egyptian history. I know Professor Yoshimura from Waseda well and have worked with him." I felt fortunate to have such an excellent guide.

There was a structure resembling a well, down which a spiral staircase descended. It was a gauge for measuring the Nile fs water levels. The concept was that in ancient Egypt, the water levels of the Nile fluctuated greatly from year to year. When the water level was high, arable land expanded, leading to increased taxation. Conversely, when the water was low, farmland became less fertile, resulting in decreased taxes. This facility measured the water levels each year. I was impressed that such a rational system had existed thousands of years ago.

We encountered a building lined with taxidermied crocodiles. It was unclear why, but in ancient times, crocodiles were revered and feared as "gsacred beasts".

Amro explained how they managed to stack the stone walls. He pointed out a section near the entrance where sun-dried bricks were stacked diagonally, which served as a hint. "These stone blocks were moved and stacked by people, but only up to a height of three blocks. Beyond that height, they created an inclined platform of sun-dried bricks to add three more blocks on top. Once that was done, they would build another inclined platform for yet another three blocks, and so the process continued."

13. Temple of Isis

After spending three days on the cruise ship, we disembarked and boarded a sailing vessel called a felucca to navigate the Nile. The riverbanks were dotted with greenery, including palm trees, and beyond them were sandstone cliffs with horizontal openings thought to be noble tombs.

Unfortunately, our felucca barely moved due to a complete lack of wind. We were ultimately towed by an engine-powered boat before we began to move. The captain of the felucca was a Nubian man with dark skin. He entertained us with songs accompanied by a small tambourine and sold decorative items for women and wooden carvings. One amusing item was a wooden crocodile that moved with a push on both sides. After about 20 minutes, we boarded a small boat to head to the Temple of Isis, which had also been relocated simultaneously with Abu Simbel.

The Temple of Isis (Philae Temple) is dedicated to the goddess of fertility, Isis. The surviving structures were built during the Ptolemaic period and were frequently expanded during the Roman era.

This temple, like the Temple of Abu Simbel, was at risk of being submerged due to the construction of the Aswan High Dam. However, it was carefully relocated from Philae Island to the nearby Agilkia Island for preservation.

According to Amro, "Isis is both the sister and wife of Osiris and the mother of Horus. Her husband Osiris was killed by his brother Set, and his body was dismembered and cast into the river. Isis collected all of his remains and resurrected him. After his resurrection, Osiris became the king of the underworld, revered as a major deity and also honored as the god of grain.

Horus is the god of the sky and the sun, often depicted as a man with the head of a hawk. In the early dynasties of Egypt, the king was seen as a manifestation of Horus, meaning that Horus symbolized the king. The island of Philae, where the Temple of Isis stands, is the sacred site where the goddess gave birth to Horus, prompting the construction of this temple in her honor."

The sun appears in a round shape in the morning, takes the form of a hawk at noon, and becomes a scarab (dung beetle) at night. Indeed, there were wall paintings illustrating this transformation.

14. The Unfinished Obelisk

In Arabic, an obelisk means a large needle for bedding. It is said that an obelisk was created as a substitute for a pyramid.

Due to the tombs being plundered, various trials led to the creation of the obelisk, which has a pointed triangular shape, regarded as sacred by the Egyptians. It serves a religious purpose and is simply erected without any burial items, such as mummies, beneath it.

The "Unfinished Obelisk" I visited was abandoned during its construction. All obelisks are made from a single piece of granite, and it is said that they were all shipped from this location.

The method of excavation involved drilling holes in the solid rock and filling the gaps with dry wooden pieces. As these absorbed water, the gaps would expand and eventually create a larger space. In fact, there were places with ancient wood still embedded.

This unfinished obelisk, for example, stands 41 meters tall and weighs 1,160 tons, making transportation a difficult task. During the dry season of the Nile, rafts were prepared to carry it, and when water levels rose with the changing seasons, it would float and be floated downstream.

15. Aswan High Dam

On the way to Abu Simbel, we stopped by the Aswan High Dam, which is an important facility guarded by the military. Upstream from the dam is a long, narrow flow, while downstream, a vast expanse of water extends as far as the eye can see. Indeed, a considerable area must have been submerged by this dam. Bougainvillea flowers bloomed beautifully around us.

Continuing toward the town of Abu Simbel, we drove for nearly three hours through the desert. It was literally a straight road flanked by desert, or rather, dusty terrain. The landscape was flat, covered in yellow-brown earth, with nothing in sight. In the distance, something seemed to be floating, and upon inquiring, I learned it was a mirage. What an incredible place this is.

This Nubian desert is said to be part of the eastern edge of the Sahara Desert, through which we traveled. Along the way, we spotted power lines and eventually a roadside drive-in. The bus stopped there, which felt like a rare blessing in the dry heat. Yet, the moment I stepped off the bus, a hot wave hit my face, making it uncomfortably prickly. I hurried back to the bus, as the temperature soared to 43 degrees, even higher than it had been at Kom Ombo Temple. This was a first-time experience for me in life.

As the bus continued, I began to see patches of green. Along the road joining from the side, palm trees sporadically appeared. There were apartment buildings nearby, but they all seemed unoccupied. Who could possibly live in such harsh natural conditions?

The terrain became more undulating, and we came across a "canal" crossing the road, filled with flowing water. Perhaps drawing water from there, vast circular patches of green appeared here and there. The crops seemed to consist of corn. A long arm protruded from the center of these circles, slowly rotating to sprinkle water. According to the guide, irrigation fields like this are created by adding groundwater to the surplus water from the dam.

The road started to get bumpy, and the bus moved slowly, swaying side to side to avoid potholes. Eventually, we returned to a properly paved road and overtook a truck carrying camels. It seemed there was a camel inspection area in Abu Simbel where only healthy animals were selected.

Finally, we arrived at our accommodation for the night, the "Sethi Abu Simbel Lake Resort Hotel," which sits facing Lake Nasser and features a charming hotel with an outdoor pool divided into two levels.

Unfortunately, there was no Wi-Fi in the rooms, so I had to go to the reception or coffee shop each time to connect. In this 40-degree heat, it felt unbearable. So, I connected to Wi-Fi at the nearest coffee shop, and while walking slowly to my room, I was delighted to find I still had a connection. However, the moment I opened the door and stepped inside, the connection abruptly cut off. I could only laugh at the irony.

16. Abu Simbel Temple

This grand Abu Simbel Temple was created by Ramses II and carved from a single mountainside. It was excavated horizontally up to 51 meters and dates back 3,300 years.

There are four main reasons for constructing such a large temple in this area:

(1) It was designed to allow sunlight to enter on October 22 and February 22. October 22 marks Ramses II fs birthday, while February 22 is his coronation anniversary.
(2) It is the birthplace of his beloved wife, Nefertari.
(3) There were many gold mines located in this area.
(4) At the time, the Egyptian dynasty was still in conflict with the Nubians to the south, so this showed Egypt's authority.

Although it mentioned the 22nd, the original dates were actually the 21st of October and February, but due to being submerged by the Aswan High Dam and moving 60 meters up, the dates shifted by a day. Alternatively, it is possible that the calendar may have changed over 3,000 years.

First, we attended the night sound and light show, featuring a projection map. Walking in the dark, relying on the streetlights, I found a seat that offered a view of both the Great Temple and the Small Temple. The Great Temple is dedicated to Ramses II of the 19th dynasty, while the Small Temple honors his beloved wife, Nefertari. The guide handed out receivers for translations according to the language of the majority of the audience. On this day, there were many American tourists, so the language was English.

As the show began in the dark, it seemed there was a limited amount of light projected onto the ruins to avoid damage, making it difficult to see initially. Since it was nearly a full moon that night, the area was quite bright, making it hard to discern with the naked eye. However, when I tried filming with my iPhone, it was amazing! The details were quite visible, surpassing what the naked eye could see. The content included:

(1) The cooperation with UNESCO that helped preserve the site from being submerged.
(2) The peace treaty established after repeated wars with the Hittites.
(3) Matters concerning Nefertari.
(4) The greatness of Ramses II's reign.

The next morning, I walked to the Abu Simbel Temple. When I looked up, it was indeed enormous. The Great Temple on the left has four giant statues of Ramses II, each standing 20 meters tall, depicting him from middle age to old age from left to right. At the feet of the giant statues are smaller figures of his wives and children. It was said that the head of the second statue from the left is missing due to an earthquake that caused it to collapse, and the fallen part lies at its feet.

Upon entering the Great Temple, I saw the depiction of Ramses II fighting the Hittites while riding in a chariot on the left wall. According to our guide, Amuro, this represents the world's first 3D image. On close inspection of the horse's legs, instead of the typical two, they are detailed as four separate ones, and the bowstring is drawn with double lines. These details signify the intense motion of the scenes. Indeed, that might be true.

The Small Temple features two statues of Queen Nefertari at the front, accompanied by four statues of Ramses II, two on each side, with their children standing at the feet of the statues. Unlike in the Great Temple, dividers exist between the statues here. Upon entering, one sees a relief of the cow-headed goddess Hathor.

Thus concluded my visit to the Abu Simbel temples, and I retraced my path back to Aswan Airport. Once again, I sped down the straight road in the desert. Exactly three hours later, I arrived in the city of Aswan. On the way to the airport, I passed through a bustling area where I saw buildings constructed on extremely narrow frames. I couldn't help but think that if an earthquake struck, they would collapse in an instant. This made me feel uneasy about the buildings in Egypt.

At Aswan Airport, I boarded a propeller plane bound for Cairo. This was Air Cairo, a low-cost subsidiary of EgyptAir, but there was no air conditioning on board, which was unbearable. It was unbearably hot and all I felt from the ventilation outlet in the cabin was lukewarm air. On my previous flight from Cairo to Luxor, also on an Air Cairo propeller plane, the air conditioning had worked fine. What in the world was happening? I just hoped to arrive at Cairo Airport soon; otherwise, I might suffer heatstroke inside the cabin, despite having avoided it outside.

Finally, I arrived at Cairo International Airport. Water was distributed on the plane, so I took a moment to breathe, and noticing that the seatback safety cards were plastic, everyone started fanning themselves with them as makeshift fans, so I did the same. It provided a slight relief.

Arriving in Cairo, I was faced with yet another irrationality. Four flights fworth of luggage was concentrated on the same baggage carousel, making the scene resemble a bustling market. Consequently, the bags took a long time to appear. After quite a wait, I finally got my luggage and made my way to the bus. However, despite seeing five or six buses in the same parking lot, the police absurdly insisted that, "None can leave until all the buses are gathered." As a result, I ended up waiting nearly another 40 minutes. Perhaps this inflexibility was a reason why development was difficult.

I stopped by a papyrus shop in Cairo. The papyrus plants have a top that resembles a broom, and their cross-section is triangular, which is cut into thin vertical strips. When these strips were pressed flat for over a week, they formed a papyrus paper. I was surprised to learn how simple the process was.

In the papyrus shop, various artistic illustrations were created based on images from tombs, featuring figures, the Ankh (key of life), the sun, and scarabs (dung beetles).

17. The Pyramids of Giza

"Giza" means "entrance," representing a region that serves as the gateway to the desert. There is an observation restaurant where you can see a total of nine pyramids, both large and small.

Among them, the three largest pyramids are those of Pharaohs Khufu, Khafre, and Menkaure. Each pyramid has associated queens f pyramids and causeways, and at the entrance of the causeway to Khafre's pyramid stands the Great Sphinx of Giza.

Khufu's pyramid was built 4,600 years ago and consists of 2.4 million stones. It is equivalent in height to a 14-story building. It is believed that the top once was gilded, making it highly visible.

According to the guide Amuro, "To build the pyramids, the first step was to level the foundation completely. Then, the process of quarrying and stacking stones would proceed. Despite being such a colossal endeavor, it was completed in just 20 years. Additionally, the workers were mostly farmers who only worked for six months of the year. Rather than working out of resentment, they saw it as an honor to serve a king who was regarded as a divine incarnation with resurrection rights."

Furthermore, according to Amuro, "The construction method of the pyramids involved using mud bricks stacked diagonally to create ramps for transporting stones for the lower third. The remaining two-thirds were built by creating a spiral staircase-like structure. It is believed that sledges made of wood were used to pull the stones, and some of those sledges have been unearthed. The size of the stones gets smaller as you move upward."

Exploring the interior of Khufu's pyramid was quite an adventure, as it was hot, steep, and narrow (there were tunnels where you had to bend). The round trip to the burial chamber took an hour, and with an outdoor temperature of 48 degrees, it felt nearly as hot as being outside. I can't imagine how difficult it must have been for tomb robbers in ancient times.

Interestingly, in the Valley of the Kings, tomb robbers would build homes at the entrances of tombs they discovered and subsequently benefit from the riches for generations. It's laughable, really.

18. The Sphinx

In ancient times, there seems to have been a boat-landing stage in front of the Sphinx, where a riverside temple stood. A boat carrying the king's body would have docked, and he was likely transported up a narrow slope to be mummified beside the pyramid.

According to the Obunsha world history dictionary (3rd version), the Sphinx has the body of a lion and the head of a human, symbolizing royal authority in ancient Egypt. It is believed to have represented Pharaohs as a lion, the king of beasts, incarnate as a divine being. The Sphinx was positioned in front of various temples to protect them.

There are theories suggesting that the Great Sphinx of Giza was commissioned by Khufu, but a more supported view is that it was built under the command of Pharaoh Khafre around 2500 BC, alongside the second pyramid.

19. The Egyptian Museum

The Egyptian Museum, commonly known as the Cairo Museum, was built in 1901 and is quite old, so a new museum is currently being constructed for relocation. For example, many mummies have already been moved to the new Grand Egyptian Museum, which is scheduled to open in December 2023. Consequently, the old museum lacks air conditioning, making it extremely hot inside.

Fortunately, the exhibition room for King Tutankhamun is air-conditioned, providing a much-needed escape from the heat outside. In this room, I found the famous golden mask, which features a gold base and blue lines made of precious lapis lazuli, along with red and black accents. However, I was disappointed to learn that photography is not allowed in this room, so I had to settle for photos of the golden mask taken at a souvenir shop outside.

The mummy is placed inside a small coffin covered by this golden mask, which is then housed inside a larger coffin, eventually fitting into the sarcophagus in the burial chamber. It feels reminiscent of Russian matryoshka dolls.

There are various items related to King Narmer, who unified Upper and Lower Egypt 5,000 years ago, and items associated with King Djoser, who built the step pyramid at Saqqara. Additionally, a wooden statue resembling the village chief from the villagers who discovered it, nicknamed "Village Chief," and a golden female figure cradling a gold chest with both hands can also be found, resembling four individuals bathing together. The diversity of exhibits was truly enjoyable.

20. Afterword

(1) I have confidence in securing round-trip flights and accommodations when traveling to the capital cities of advanced countries. However, in countries like Egypt, where logic, society, and daily customs differ, and transportation is inconvenient, it fs indeed safer to join a tour.

(2) I bought my first color laptop in Japan in 1991, shortly after the release of Windows 3.1, which eventually led to Microsoft fs current success.

When I opened that 3.1, I noticed the wallpaper featured Machu Picchu in Peru and the pyramids of Egypt. Gazing at it, I was captivated by their beauty and have long thought about visiting these two places. I have already visited Machu Picchu, leaving only the pyramids.

(3) Therefore, I decided to join a tour with Club Tourism. On the day I arrived at Narita Airport, I was surprised twice. One surprise was that the tour guide was suddenly changed due to a family bereavement.

The substitute guide had been asked to step in just the night before at 10 PM and had returned from Cambodia only two days prior. I realized this job must require incredible toughness.

The second surprise was that, despite being labeled a tour, there were only five participants, and except for myself, all were women. The group consisted of two mothers and their daughters, alongside me. Apparently, several people dropped out right before the departure, but the trip wasn ft canceled because it had already been announced as "departure confirmed." This reflects the rather serious attitude of a Japanese travel agency. According to the new guide, Yamazaki, there was a past instance where there were only three participants in a tour.

(4) Given that I was traveling to Egypt, I asked friends beforehand, and a few had mentioned experiencing stomach issues there. Consequently, I decided to avoid raw foods and brought ten bottles of bottled water and some snacks from Japan in case the local food didn ft suit me. Additionally, the travel agency's brochure stated, "Many hotels in Egypt do not provide shampoo, conditioner, body soap, or toothbrushes, so please bring your own." Because of these items, my large suitcase weighed in at 22 kilograms, just under the 23-kilogram limit.

What transpired was somewhat different. Although the cruise ship lacked toothbrushes, everything else was available. Moreover, I received a bottle of water at the hotel and another on the bus. Thus, there was no need for concern. However, because I sweated a lot, I ended up consuming one of the bottled waters I had brought from Japan each day, which was just right. It should be noted that the bottled water in Egypt seems to be hard water, so people sensitive to it might experience what is colloquially described as "not agreeing with the water," thus it might be wise to avoid it.

Initially, I decided not to eat anything raw and skipped salads and fruits at the first hotel. However, my body craved such food. By the second night on the cruiser, I boldly decided to eat. Although the salad consisted mainly of tomatoes, lettuce, cucumbers, and dates, it was delicious and I experienced no issues. I even decided to try fresh juice next, opting for a delightful mango-strawberry mix. It was so good that I ordered another cup!

All restaurant drinks could be paid for in U.S. dollars. I had exchanged for only one and ten dollar bills at a currency exchange near the Yaesu Exit beforehand, which was quite helpful. Interestingly, souvenir vendors at tourist spots would approach, calling out "One Dollar! One Dollar!" When I inquired whether they were genuinely looking for a wanderer, they replied, "This is twenty dollar!" It turned out that "Wanderer" was simply a way of saying "welcome." It was quite humorous.

September 30th, 2023 jcopyright