This is my essay.



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Contents
          
 
 1     About Croatia and Slovenia  
 2     Lake Bled (Northern Slovenia)  
 3     Postojna Cave (Central Slovenia)  
 4     Split (Southern Croatia)  
 5     Dubrovnik (Southern Croatia)
 6     Plitvice Lakes National Park (Central Croatia)  
 7     Capital City Zagreb (Nothern Croatia)  
 8     Travel Diary



1. About Croatia and Slovenia

(1) Croatia and Slovenia were once part of the Yugoslav Federation, but later became embroiled in the Yugoslav Wars over independence from the federation. I did not have much knowledge about this region, but since there was a tour from Japan, I decided to visit. With this trip, my count of visited countries reaches 39.

The two countries, Slovenia to the north and Croatia to the south, are located across the Adriatic Sea from the eastern end of the Italian Peninsula. Slovenia has a shape and area similar to Shikoku in Japan and is mostly an inland country, while Croatia's western end faces the Adriatic Sea, taking on a shape resembling a "sickle" with a blade-like protrusion on the right side. To the east of these two countries lies Bosnia and Herzegovina, further east is Serbia, and to the south is Kosovo, all of which are nations in the Balkan Peninsula.

This region is complex, with diverse religions (Catholicism, Serbian Orthodoxy, Islam), multiple languages (Slovene, Croatian, Serbian, Macedonian), and various ethnic groups (Slovenes, Croats, Serbs, Macedonians, Muslims), along with many small nations (Slovenia, Croatia, Serbia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Montenegro, Macedonia). During the time when World War II hero Tito was alive, these countries managed to remain united as the Yugoslav Federation.

However, after President Tito passed away in 1980, conflicts between the countries deepened. In 1990, about six months after the fall of the Berlin Wall, Croatia began to show signs of independence, declaring complete independence in 1991 alongside Slovenia. In an attempt to thwart this movement, Serbian forces resorted to violence, leading to a civil war. Landlocked Serbia sought access to the Adriatic Sea, temporarily occupying world heritage sites such as the medieval walled city of Dubrovnik in the far south and the Plitvice Lakes National Park in central Croatia. Croatia regained these territories in 1995, and the war continued until 1998.

The number of fatalities and missing persons due to this war is estimated to be around 15,000 on the Croatian side and 8,000 on the Serbian side, with refugees numbering approximately 200,000 on the Croatian side and 450,000 on the Serbian side.

(2) I departed from Haneda Airport on Lufthansa (LH717). Following the course of the flight, we first headed north from Japan, passing east of the Kamchatka Peninsula and entering the Bering Sea. Afterward, we crossed over the western edge of Alaska, flew over the Arctic Ocean, and approximately at the North Pole, we entered above the eastern tip of Greenland and then over the Scandinavian Peninsula, arriving at Frankfurt Airport in Germany.

This long journey took about 14 hours. Due to the current war in Ukraine, flying over Russian airspace is not permitted, resulting in approximately a 2-hour delay.

At Frankfurt Airport, I transferred to a narrow airplane and arrived in Graz, located in southern Austria. I'll be staying at the Ramada Graz Hotel.


2. Lake Bled (Lake Bled, Northern Slovenia)

Lake Bled, located at the foot of the Alps in northwestern Slovenia, is a stunning tourist destination often referred to as the "Eye of the Alps." The lake boasts deep turquoise-blue waters, overlooked by Bled Castle, while a picturesque church, reminiscent of a fairy tale, sits on a small island in the middle of the lake.





In the background, you can see the snow-capped Julian Alps (named after Julius Caesar) or the Sunny Alps. In the 11th century, Albuin I established a town here in Bled, and in the 13th century, Bled Castle was built. The castle later came under the ownership of the Habsburg family, who made renovations and expansions, leading to its current appearance from the 16th century onward.

According to a local guide, just four days ago, it was warm enough to swim in the lake, but suddenly the temperature dropped, bringing snow to the mountains, and now Bled is experiencing a high of 20 degrees and a low of 8 degrees Celsius.

The main attraction is the small Bled Island, which floats in the center of the lake. To get there, visitors use the traditional rowboat called a "pletna." This 20-passenger boat has everyone believing that all passengers need to row, but the skilled boatman at the stern maneuvers with both hands. Surprisingly, he appears to handle the seemingly heavy boat with ease. Just before reaching the dock, he makes an impressive U-turn and skillfully brings the boat to the pier, drawing applause from the onlookers. To maintain the boat's balance, passengers are instructed not to stand or lean back, and during boarding and disembarking, they must move alternately with one person from the opposing side.





After about 10 minutes, we arrive at Bled Island and slowly ascend 100 steps from the dock. There, a beautiful church awaits us. Inside, although small, it features an altar and a small pipe organ. It must be a blissful experience to worship in this fairy-tale-like church.



Unfortunately, Bled Castle, which we could not visit this time, is situated on a cliff overlooking the lake and exudes the atmosphere of a medieval castle coming back to life in modern times. Inside the castle, there is a museum where visitors can learn about the region's history and culture.

A well-maintained 6km walking trail surrounds Lake Bled, where you can see people enjoying hiking and jogging. The lake's surface reflects beautiful views throughout the seasons, making it a truly wonderful place.


3 Postojna Cave (Postojna Cave, Central Slovenia)

The Postojna Cave boasts a total length of 27 kilometers, making it the largest cave system in Europe. While there are four similar caves in Slovenia, only this one features a funicular railway.







Initially, I thought it would be similar to Akiyoshidai in Japan, but it turned out to be a true adventure. First, we hopped on the funicular and zoomed through the narrow tunnels for about ten minutes, which was surprisingly thrilling. The ceiling was quite close to my head, and the sides felt very cramped. If you are taller than 185 cm, it could be quite dangerous. Such conditions would likely never be allowed in Japan.

Upon reaching the cave's underground end, we faced an additional 1.5 kilometers of walking. We had to navigate slopes and areas with flowing water while observing various stalactites, stalagmites, and connected stone columns hanging from the ceilings. The scenery was indeed magnificent and impressive, but it also felt somewhat rudimentary. For example, there weren't any dramatic landscapes like terraced fields surrounded by rimstone.





While thinking "I want to get out quickly," I finally boarded the return funicular, racing through the underground once more until we reached the exit. Near this area, there was a tank containing a unique creature called the "olm," which is approximately 15 cm long, pink, and has degenerated eyes. This animal is said to be the hallmark of this cave.

This cave experience felt similar to when I visited a salt mine in Poland in March this year, pushing me to walk extensively as if to say, "This is enough!" I wouldn ft particularly recommend exploring caves in Europe. By the way, the temperature in the cave is about 10 degrees Celsius year-round, with a humidity of 78%. Upon entering and while racing through the funicular, I felt a chill, but otherwise felt warm while walking.


4 Split (Split, Southern Croatia)

岩礁の女神


On the way south from Postojna, we stayed overnight in Opatija, located about 60 kilometers away. This is a beautiful port town. As we all left the hotel for an evening stroll, we encountered a sculpture called "The Girl and the Seagull," also known as the "Goddess of Reefs" (by Zvonko Car) along the coast. Struck by its charm, I suddenly noticed how beautiful the moonlight illuminating the surroundings was.

The next morning, we continued further south to Split, stopping for a meal in a nearby port town. The menu featured fish soup first, which lacked richness and wasn't very impressive. The main dish was braised calamari served with a mixture of pureed spinach and potatoes. The calamari was delicious, and if this were Hokkaido, it would have been suggested to serve as stuffed squid with rice. However, the spinach puree had no particular flavor or aroma.

Split, the largest port town along the Adriatic coast, has its origins in the palace of Roman Emperor Diocletian (around 300 AD), which forms the old town. After the downfall of the Roman Empire and during the invasions by foreign tribes in the 7th century, Slavs began to settle inside these sturdy walls, marking the city's beginnings. These ramparts measure 180 meters in the east-west direction, 215 meters in the north-south direction, are 20 meters tall, and 2 meters thick, with gates open to the east, west, south, and north.

According to AI Chat, "Split is a beautiful coastal city in southern Croatia known for its rich history and culture, along with stunning beaches. Diocletian's Palace is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and an ancient Roman palace located in the center of Split, where cafes and shops line the inside, allowing visitors to enjoy the historical atmosphere."







The guide informed us that Emperor Diocletian was originally from Split and had built this palace as his retirement home. However, after the emperor's death, the mausoleum where his body was buried was destroyed, and the Split Cathedral was built in its place.

Upon entering the palace, which was originally built underwater, the first floor was submerged, but now it has become dry land. Roman architecture maintains stability by having the same structure for both the first and second floors.

Additionally, after the palace fell into ruin, the Croatians who settled there made holes in the second-floor floorboards to dispose of waste, leading to the first floor being buried in garbage. Over time, the second floor deteriorated and was lost, but by removing the rubbish from the first floor, the original Roman structures reemerged. What an interesting story it is!







Diocletian's Palace is nearly square-shaped, with each of its gates named the Golden Gate, Silver Gate, Copper Gate, and Iron Gate. Inside, there are narrow alleyways lined with souvenir shops. I was surprised to see what appeared to be a real statue of a small sphinx, likely a war trophy from Rome's invasion of Egypt. Outside the Silver Gate, there was an open-air market, and we took a break at a nearby cafe.


5 Dubrovnik (Dubrovnik, Southern Croatia)

On our way from Split to Dubrovnik, we stopped in the port town of Skradin and later crossed the newly completed bridge to Pa?man Island, built by a Chinese company. I was somewhat concerned, but we passed over it safely.







Just before reaching our destination, Dubrovnik, we encountered the Plo?e Bridge, named after Croatia's first president. At its base, there is an observation deck where you can overlook the new town and the beautiful blue Adriatic Sea below, as well as luxurious cruise ships docked nearby.

Upon arriving in Dubrovnik, we found ourselves in this beautiful limestone city, often referred to as the "Pearl of the Adriatic," which is also a UNESCO World Heritage site.

In the Middle Ages, Dubrovnik was divided between Serbs and Croats, but later unified and prospered as a major commercial city alongside Venice. As the easternmost city-state in the Western world, it enjoyed prosperity through trade with the Byzantine Empire.



After experiencing two world wars, it became a part of the Yugoslav Federation. However, in 1991, it was attacked by Serbian-led Yugoslav federal forces, resulting in devastating damage to the old town (see the map above). Despite this, vigorous restoration efforts occurred after the conflict, and today, very few traces of that turmoil remain. Still, what an act of barbarism it was. I have heard that in the Plitvice Lakes National Park, beautiful lakes were blasted to catch fish by Serbians.







A symbol of Dubrovnik is the city walls that encircle it. Walking along these walls provides a panoramic view of the city. Below, a medieval landscape unfolds.

Within those walls is St. Blaise Church, a beautiful structure made of pale pink stone, dedicated to Saint Blaise, the patron saint of Dubrovnik.

The Pile Gate serves as the main entrance to the old town, featuring a beautiful arch. Passing through this entrance, you immediately sense the solemn atmosphere of a medieval fortress city. After navigating narrow paths that barely allow two people to pass, you arrive at Stradun Street, the main thoroughfare of the old town, lined with stylish cafes and shops, bustling with activity.







We also took a cable car up Mount Srd. The view from there was absolutely breathtaking, offering a complete panorama of Dubrovnik and the Adriatic Sea.

From Dubrovnik's port, sightseeing boats depart. Initially, I thought we were on a medium-sized nearby ship, but it turned out to be a smaller boat that resembled a souped-up motorboat. There was a refreshing thrill as the engine roared and waves splashed around, although I was a bit worried about the high waves that day.





Suddenly, the boat would lift about a meter in the air, then dive into the same depth of the sea. There was continuous pitching followed by rolling, causing the boat to sway up and down. Each time, seawater splashed over us, making me dizzy. However, I didn ft get seasick, and I felt relieved when we finally arrived back at the port.

Along the way, we passed a luxurious cruise ship anchored offshore. The guide mentioned that due to insufficient water depth, passengers would be transported to Dubrovnik via smaller

There are two seven-star ultra-luxury hotels, both owned by wealthy Arabs. Surrounding them are five-star hotels, all of which have private beaches.







I took marinated octopus and seafood pizza at a restaurant in Dubrovnik called Scala. It was very delicious.

The next morning, it was finally time for the city wall tour. The wall stretches about 2 km in total and reaches a maximum height of 25 meters. I entered through the main entrance at the Plo?e Gate, which has the Fort Revelin, and intended to walk all the way around counterclockwise. However, I started to get bored and descended to the ground at the Maritime Museum, which is near the third exit, having completed almost three-quarters of the walk. Well, I felt like a Croatian soldier guarding a fortified city in the Middle Ages.

At the beginning of this course is the Fort Revelin, and once I climbed that, the path alternated between going up and down. There were places where the road became quite narrow, as well as wider areas with shops selling fresh orange juice.





The scenery was truly breathtaking, with houses featuring red tiled roofs densely packed below, and occasionally the spire of the Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary protruding, providing a striking accent. Beyond the old town, the deep blue sea spread out, and to the left, there was Lokrum Island.

According to the guide, there is a legend regarding Lokrum Island. It is said that in 1192, during the time of the Crusades, Richard the Lionheart of England was shipwrecked in these waters on his way back home. He washed ashore on this island, where he was rescued and saved. As a token of gratitude, he intended to establish a church on the island, but since there was already a church, he donated to a church in Dubrovnik instead.


6 Plitvice Lakes National Park

We departed from Dubrovnik on a bus heading north to Plitvice, embarking on a long seven-hour journey. Along the way, the highway was flanked by a desolate landscape of karst plateau, with low shrubs growing between the limestone. This area couldn ft even serve as pasture land.

However, as we approached Plitvice, the barren landscape began to give way to fields of grass. According to one theory, moss and other plants have taken root between the limestone, preventing water from leaking underground and allowing land to form, which eventually became forested.



We arrived at Plitvice Lakes National Park, located 110 km south of the capital, Zagreb. This large-scale national park consists of 16 lakes of various sizes and 92 waterfalls. It is filled with incredibly beautiful nature and is home to 80 species of butterflies, 150 species of birds, and wildlife such as bears, lynxes, wolves, foxes, and deer. It is also registered as a UNESCO World Heritage site.

The chain of 16 lakes is layered, with each lake displaying different hues of blue, green, and emerald, and the color of the lakes changes with the seasons and weather.







Among these, the highest point is the "Great Waterfall" (Veliki Slap), which is 78 meters tall and offers a breathtaking view as the water cascades down. The small lake at the base of the waterfall is a stunning cobalt blue. If you look to your left, there are small lakes stacked like terraced fields leading upwards.

The park has various well-maintained hiking trails that allow you to explore the lakes and waterfalls. One path leads from a clifftop where you can see the Great Waterfall down to the base of the waterfall, crossing a walkway that connects two small lakes.







From there, you climb up the terraced small lakes one by one. The gentle sound of flowing water is soothing as you progress along the walkway. The colors of the lakes transition from deep cobalt blue to light turquoise. If you peer into the water, you might see fish resembling rock trout found in Japan.





As you continue upwards, the lakes gradually become larger until you finally arrive at Lake Kozjak. This area, referred to as "P3," is where you board a boat. A simple 20-passenger boat glides quietly across the mirror-like surface of the lake. Because it was drizzling on that day, there wasn't particularly remarkable scenery, and we crossed the lake to reach the opposite shore at "P2." There, a few passengers disembarked before we proceeded to the nearby "P1," the endpoint of this short cruise.

To my surprise, "P1" turned out to be the same place where our nature tour began, at the hotel. It left me wondering what the point was of walking or boating through all those stacked small lakes. Thus, our brief two-hour, roughly two-kilometer nature tour came to an end.


7 Capital City Zagreb (Nothern Croatia)

We arrived in the capital of Croatia, Zagreb. After getting off the bus in front of Zagreb Station, we explored the nearby Tomislav Square, which features an equestrian statue of Tomislav, Croatia's first king in the center.







We then rode the number 6 blue tram and got off at Ban Jelacic Square, which is the central square of Zagreb, surrounded by numerous cafes and restaurants bustling with tourists.

After walking about 200 meters west from the square, we found the cable car station. Riding it took us up a small hill, and we arrived there in just about 30 seconds.

This area, known as Gornji Grad (Upper Town), has its origins as a merchant town recognized as a free city in the 13th century; next door is the Kaptol district, which began as a religious city in the 11th century.







Even today, the center of Kaptol is dominated by the Zagreb Cathedral (Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary), which boasts two spires and is the tallest church in Croatia in a grand Gothic style. However, unfortunately, it collapsed due to a major earthquake in March 2020 and is currently undergoing repairs with scaffolding set up around it. From the cathedral's tower, visitors can enjoy panoramic views of Zagreb.

Gornji Grad and Kaptol were effectively merged in the 17th century and formally combined in the 19th century, leading to rapid development of the city thereafter. Gornji Grad is also home to St. Mark's Church, characterized by a colorful mosaic roof, which, according to our guide, displays the coats of arms of the Kingdom of Croatia, the Dalmatian region, and Slavonia on the left side and the coat of arms of the Zagreb region on the right.

Nearby, there is the Stone Gate, structured in an arched stone design. Graz (now Gornji Grad) was once a free city surrounded by walls, which housed several gates.





All the gates were originally wooden, but the guide mentioned that these gates burned down during a major fire in the 18th century. However, a statue of Mary that was located nearby was miraculously found intact among the rubble and was once again enshrined at this gate, drawing many visitors seeking blessings, much like the Kannon statue at Asakusa Temple.


8 Travel Diary

(1) This trip was truly amazing. The beauty of nature, the history and culture of ancient Rome and the Middle Ages, along with delicious seafood, created a week filled to the brim with the allure of travel.

The points that particularly impressed me are as follows:

- A beautiful island floating in the blue waters of Lake Bled with a quaint church atop it
- The large stalactites of the Postojna Cave and the speeding funicular train
- The beauty and medieval history of the Adriatic coastline, which is an archipelago
- The historical context surrounding Diocletian's Palace in Split
- The city walls that surround Dubrovnik, known as a medieval commercial city
- The terraced dark blue lakes of Plitvice Lakes National Park
- The medieval ambiance preserved in the streets of the capital, Zagreb


(2) This trip became quite troublesome due to the travel agency, Hankyu Travel, randomly selecting Lufthansa for our flights. They specified, "Check in 30 hours before departure individually." I had requested Premium Economy, but unfortunately, there were no exceptions.

When departing from Japan, the timing was reasonable, but for the return trip, it was scheduled for 3:40 AM. As I rubbed my sleepy eyes attempting to check in, I received a message saying, "Check-in cannot be completed due to technical reasons" after completing all the steps and pressing the last button. No matter how many times I tried, the same result appeared, which was frustrating. I consulted the tour guide, but she also seemed unsure.

Reluctantly, I left for breakfast, and when I asked fellow tour members, they had checked in easily in Economy. It seemed I was the only one in Premium Economy. I couldn ft figure out why this was happening no matter how hard I thought about it.。

Just when I thought the trip was ruined, I received an email from Lufthansa at 6:30 AM prompting me to check in. Following the instructions, I was finally able to complete the check-in. However, I still don ft understand the reason for the earlier issues, and I decided to avoid using Lufthansa as much as possible in the future.

(3) My return journey to Japan also started from Graz in southern Austria, but unlike the outbound trip through Frankfurt, the Lufthansa flight I boarded (LH714) went via Munich. However, the return route was not over the Arctic; instead, it followed Germany the Middle East the Caspian Sea China, which allowed us to enjoy a tailwind, arriving at Haneda Airport in 12 hours.






(21st September, 2024)copyright




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